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Foundations
How Does Fashion Get From Factory to Store?
020 GTWJ Fashion Index · Foundations How Does Fashion Get From Factory to Store? A finished garment is not yet a sellable garment. Between the factory and the customer sits another system: packing, freight, customs, warehousing, allocation and retail distribution. STUDY OBJECTIVE — Understand what happens after bulk production is complete: final preparation, ex-factory dates, commercial documents, freight forwarding, transport, customs, duties, landed cost, distribution centers, inventory receiving, allocation, wholesale and direct-to-consumer distribution, store replenishment and e-commerce fulfillment. Fashion Index 020 · The journey after manufacturing 01 · Start here... Read more...
How Does Fashion Sourcing Work?
019 GTWJ Fashion Index · Foundations How Does Fashion Sourcing Work? Sourcing is not simply finding somebody who can make something. It is finding the right material, supplier and production partner for the product a brand is actually trying to create. STUDY OBJECTIVE — Understand how fashion brands find and evaluate textile mills, factories, tanneries, trim suppliers and specialist manufacturers; how quality, price, MOQ, lead time, capacity, technical capability, geography, reliability and compliance affect supplier selection; how trade fairs, sourcing agents, supplier libraries and long-term relationships work; and why the... Read more...
What Is a Fashion Supply Chain?
018 GTWJ Fashion Index · Foundations What Isa FashionSupply Chain? A garment may look like one object. In reality, it can contain the work of farms, mills, dye houses, factories, specialists, warehouses and logistics networks spread across several countries. STUDY OBJECTIVE — Understand the full architecture behind a fashion product: raw materials, fibers, yarns, textiles, dyeing and finishing, trims, garment manufacturing, subcontracting, supplier tiers, traceability, transparency, vertical integration, logistics and distribution. By the end, you should be able to look beyond the final “Made in” label and begin reconstructing the... Read more...
What Is Product Development in Fashion?
017 GTWJ Fashion Index · Foundations What Is Product Development in Fashion? Somewhere between the designer's idea and the factory's production line, somebody has to make the product possible. STUDY OBJECTIVE — Understand what fashion product development actually is; how product developers work between design, sourcing, technical teams, suppliers and factories; how prototypes, fittings, fabrics, trims, costing, sample comments and calendars are managed; how product development differs from design, merchandising and production; and why the role is fundamentally about preserving creative intention while solving practical problems. Fashion Index 017 ·... Read more...
How Does Fashion Production Work?
016 GTWJ Fashion Index · Foundations How Does Fashion Production Work? Fashion production is not simply the moment when somebody begins sewing. It is the long process of turning one approved idea into a product that can be made repeatedly without losing what made the original design work. STUDY OBJECTIVE — By the end of this entry, you should understand how a garment travels from design development into commercial manufacturing; how sourcing, mills, trims, suppliers, patterns, prototypes, fittings, tech packs, costing, grading, pre-production approvals, factories, quality control, packing and logistics... Read more...
What Is a Fashion Showroom?
015 GTWJ Fashion Index · Foundations What Is a Fashion Showroom? The runway presents the idea of a collection. The showroom reveals the products that can actually be examined, selected and ordered. STUDY OBJECTIVE — Understand why fashion showrooms exist, who uses them, how they differ from stores and runway shows, what samples and line sheets are, how wholesale appointments work, how collections are organized commercially, the differences between permanent, temporary, in-house and multi-brand showrooms, and how the showroom helps convert a creative collection into wholesale orders. Fashion Index 015... Read more...
What Does a Fashion Buyer Do?
014 GTWJ Fashion Index · Foundations What Does a Fashion Buyer Do? A buyer does not simply choose beautiful clothes. A buyer decides which part of a collection a retailer is willing to turn into inventory. STUDY OBJECTIVE — Understand the role of the fashion buyer, wholesale buying, showroom appointments, budgets, open-to-buy, assortment building, order quantities, size curves, color decisions, delivery windows, margins, sell-through, markdown risk, exclusives, regional differences and the relationship between buyers, brands and merchandise planners. Fashion Index 014 · The commercial edit 01 · Start here What... Read more...
What Is Merchandising in Fashion?
013 GTWJ Fashion Index · Foundations What Is Merchandising in Fashion? A designer can create a beautiful collection. Merchandising helps determine what that collection actually becomes as a product offer. STUDY OBJECTIVE — By the end of this entry, you should understand what fashion merchandising is, how merchandisers work between creative and commercial teams, how assortments and category plans are built, what SKUs are, how pricing architecture works, why runway and sellable collections differ, what carryover and replenishment mean, how sales information influences future collections, and how merchandising differs from... Read more...
What Is a Fashion House Archive?
012 GTWJ Fashion Index · Foundations What Is a Fashion House Archive? An archive is where fashion stops being only memory and becomes evidence. STUDY OBJECTIVE — By the end of this entry, you should understand what fashion houses preserve, how archival objects are catalogued and stored, why conservation matters, what provenance means, how archive and heritage departments differ, how designers conduct archive research, why archives are incomplete, how museum collections differ from corporate archives, and why preserving the past does not mean allowing the past to dictate the future.... Read more...
What Is a Fashion House Code?
011 GTWJ Fashion Index · Foundations What Is a Fashion House Code? A logo can tell you whose garment you are looking at. A house code can make you know before you ever see the logo. STUDY OBJECTIVE — By the end of this entry, you should understand what fashion professionals mean by a house code; distinguish codes from logos, motifs, signatures, trends and archive references; recognize visual and structural codes; understand how codes accumulate over time; and learn how to evaluate whether a creative director is continuing a house... Read more...
Made-to-Measure, Bespoke & Custom
010 GTWJ Fashion Index · Foundations Made-to-Measure, Bespoke & Custom These words are often used as though they all mean “made especially for you.” They do not. The real difference lies in where the garment begins: an existing product, an existing pattern, or an individually created pattern and process. STUDY OBJECTIVE — By the end of this entry, you should be able to distinguish ready-to-wear, made-to-order, made-to-measure, bespoke, custom, alterations and haute couture; understand how patterns, fittings and measurements differ between them; recognize where luxury marketing can blur the terminology;... Read more...
What Is Haute Couture?
009 GTWJ Fashion Index · Foundations What Is Haute Couture? Not a synonym for expensive. Not simply handmade. Not simply a spectacular runway gown. Haute couture is a particular fashion system built around Paris, specialized houses, ateliers, individual clients and an extraordinary concentration of technical knowledge. STUDY OBJECTIVE — By the end of this entry, you should understand how haute couture developed, what the protected Haute Couture designation means today, how couture houses and ateliers operate, how a client orders a couture garment, what happens during fittings, who physically makes... Read more...
What Is Ready-to-Wear?
008 GTWJ Fashion Index · Foundations What Is Ready-to-Wear? Ready-to-wear transformed fashion from a system centered on clothing made for individual clients into one capable of producing a designer's ideas in standardized sizes for many bodies. STUDY OBJECTIVE — By the end of this entry, you should understand what ready-to-wear means, where prêt-à-porter comes from, how it differs from couture and made-to-measure, why standardized sizing matters, how grading works, what happens between runway sample and production garment, and why ready-to-wear became the foundation of modern fashion. 01 · Begin with... Read more...
What Is a Fashion Season?
007 GTWJ Fashion Index · Foundations What Is a Fashion Season? Spring/Summer. Fall/Winter. Resort. Cruise. Pre-Fall. Couture. Menswear. Womenswear. Fashion appears to live by seasons — but the industry is actually operating through several different clocks at once. STUDY OBJECTIVE — By the end of this entry, you should understand what a fashion season is, why the calendar exists, how to read season names and years correctly, why collections are shown months before they are sold, and how runway, buying, production and retail timelines overlap. 01 · Begin with the... Read more...
How Is a Fashion Collection Made?
006 GTWJ Fashion Index · Foundations How Is a Fashion Collection Made? From the first idea inside a studio to fabrics, prototypes, fittings, merchandising, runway, showroom, production and retail — this is the complete architecture behind a fashion collection. STUDY OBJECTIVE — By the end of this entry, you should be able to explain how a professional fashion collection moves from concept to customer and identify the people, departments and decisions involved at each stage. 01 · Start here A fashion collection is not made in the order we eventually... Read more...
What Is an Atelier?
005 GTWJ Fashion Index · Foundations What Is anAtelier? The atelier is the place where fashion stops being hypothetical. Here, ideas are tested against cloth, construction, gravity, movement and the human body. 01 · Begin with the definition What exactly is an atelier? Atelier simply means workshop or studio; its exact meaning depends on context. In fashion, an atelier is a specialist workshop in which garments or other fashion objects are developed, constructed, fitted, corrected and finished. The French word atelier is not exclusive to fashion. Artists, craftspeople and makers... Read more...
What Is a Fashion Designer?
GTWJ Fashion Index · 004 · Foundations What Is aFashion Designer? How an idea becomes clothing — and why fashion design is much more than sketching a beautiful outfit. We use the word designer so casually that the profession can begin to feel self-explanatory. Designer clothes. Fashion designer. Assistant designer. Head designer. But what does designing actually involve? Does a designer need to draw? Do they need to sew? Who cuts the pattern? Who constructs the sample? What happens at a fitting? And when a runway contains sixty or eighty... Read more...
What Is a Creative Director?
GTWJ Fashion Index · 003 · Foundations What Is aCreative Director? Understanding creative authorship, authority, succession, the studio system, and the person asked to decide what a fashion house becomes next. The title appears constantly in fashion: appointed creative director, departing creative director, debut collection, new era. But the phrase is often used as though everybody already knows what it means. This entry begins before the title became normal and follows the role into the contemporary fashion house. A fashion house may be identified publicly with one creative leader, but... Read more...
How to Understand a Fashion House
GTWJ FASHION INDEX • 001 How to Understanda Fashion House The difference between what you would wear and what belongs to the house. Personal taste asks: Would I wear it? Fashion analysis asks: What is it trying to be? One of the easiest mistakes to make when looking at a fashion show is asking only one question: Would I wear this? It is a perfectly reasonable question if you are deciding what to buy. We are customers too. We look at collections and think about the coat we want, the... Read more...