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Fashion Index

A growing GTWJ reference library for understanding fashion — designers, houses, runway, history, terminology, creative figures, movements, industry developments and the practical application of personal style.

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WEEK 2: REDISCOVERING YOUR PERSONAL STYLE
GTWJ FASHION / IDEAS / IDENTITY GTWJ UNFILTERED / BEYOND STYLING 10 WEEKS BEFORE 2027 / WEEK 02 REDISCOVERING YOUR PERSONAL STYLE Seven days of learning to look at fashion more closely, understanding your own taste, and rediscovering the pleasure of getting dressed. October 26 – November 1, 2026 Seven days / One chapter each day A LETTER FROM JU Getting Dressed Like Yourself Again Welcome to our second week of 10 Weeks Before 2027. Last week, we spent seven days looking at the lives we're actually living. We considered... Read more...
Appointment 06: “What I Would Add to Your Closet.”
GTWJ Fashion Index · Personal Styling If I Were Your Stylist · Appointment 06 What I Would Add to Your Closet Not a list of essentials. The piece that would make the rest of your closet work harder. If we were having this appointment together, I would not open your closet and start naming things I think every woman should own. I do not think a useful personal styling appointment works that way. I would want to know where your clothes repeatedly stop. Which jackets never seem to find the... Read more...
Seán McGirr Exits. What Is McQueen Now?
GTWJ Fashion Index · Fashion News Alexander McQueen · October 2026 Seán McGirr Exits. What Is McQueenNow? The departure does not surprise me. The harder question is whether the house can give us a future we want to believe in—and a woman we want to become. By Ju · Published 19 October 2026 Departure announced 15 October 2026 The announcement An exit I was expecting Alexander McQueen announced on 15 October that Seán McGirr would be leaving his role as creative director. His appointment had been announced in October 2023;... Read more...
Anthony Vaccarello Leaves Saint Laurent. What Remains?
GTWJ Fashion Index · Fashion News Saint Laurent · October 2026 Anthony VaccarelloLeaves Saint Laurent.What Remains? After ten years, a designer leaves behind more than collections. He leaves a picture of the house in our minds—and a profound challenge for whoever comes next. By Ju · Published 19 October 2026Announcement: 9 October 2026 · Creative direction: 2016–2026 The announcement A decade comes to a close Saint Laurent announced Anthony Vaccarello’s departure on 9 October 2026, bringing his ten-year tenure as creative director to an end. In its official statement, Kering... Read more...
WEEK 1: THE LIFE YOU'RE ACTUALLY LIVING
GTWJ GTWJ UNFILTERED BEYOND STYLING 10 WEEKS BEFORE 2027 / EDITION 01 THE LIFE YOU'RE ACTUALLY LIVING Before we decide what we want our lives to look like next year, perhaps we should spend a little time getting to know the lives we already have. October 19–25, 2026 Seven days · One chapter a day A LETTER FROM JU Welcome to our first week of 10 Weeks Before 2027. When we imagine a different version of our lives, it's surprisingly easy to begin with the finished picture. We imagine how... Read more...
10 WEEKS BEFORE 2027
GTWJ PERSONAL STYLING GTWJ UNFILTERED A SPECIAL MEMBERS-ONLY EXPERIENCE · 2026 10 WEEKS BEFORE 2027 An invitation to begin before the new year does. October 19 — December 27, 2026 10 Editions · 70 Days 01 / A LETTER BEFORE WE BEGIN WHY ARE WE BEGINNING NOW? There is something about the beginning of a new year that makes us want to change things. We start thinking about the person we want to become, the way we want to dress, how we want our days to feel, the habits we... Read more...
WILL BE ADDED SOON
Appointment 05: The Layering Appointment.
GTWJ Fashion Index · Personal Styling If I Were Your Stylist · Appointment 05 The Layering Appointment The problem is rarely that you are wearing too many layers. It is usually that the layers are not talking to one another. If we were having this appointment together, I would not begin by teaching you a formula such as shirt + sweater + blazer. You already know that clothes can be placed on top of other clothes. What I would want to understand is why some combinations make you feel more... Read more...
PARIS THE DEBUTS ARE OVER. WHAT DID FASHION ACTUALLY DECIDE?
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris Spring 2027 · Season Report GTWJ Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week PARIS THE DEBUTS ARE OVER. WHAT DID FASHION ACTUALLY DECIDE? The strongest collections, the designers who moved fashion forward, the trends worth watching, and what Spring 2027 can already teach us about dressing for Fall 2026. SeasonSpring 2027 CityParis StudyFashion Month Conclusion PerspectiveDesign, Desire & Discovery 00 / The Central Question What comes after the debut? Paris Spring 2027 arrived at an interesting moment in fashion. Many of the... Read more...
SPRING 2027 → YOUR FALL 2026 WARDROBE
GTWJ · FASHION INDEX · RUNWAY TO WARDROBE · PART II SPRING 2027 → YOUR FALL 2026 WARDROBE Fashion Week is showing us what comes next. But some of its best ideas are useful long before Spring 2027 arrives. This time, we're taking Celine, Givenchy and Dries Van Noten out of the runway calendar and into the season we're actually dressing for. Celine SS27 · Givenchy SS27 · Dries Van Noten SS27 · Fall 2026 The premise THE RUNWAY DOESN'T HAVE TO MATCH THE WEATHER OUTSIDE. Paris is showing Spring/Summer... Read more...
Chanel SS27
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris · Spring 2027 CHANEL Can the Detail Be More Exciting Than the Silhouette? Matthieu Blazy's Chanel no longer has the advantage of being new simply because it is different. The woman is becoming recognizable, the language is becoming continuous, and the question has changed. Spring 2027 is a good collection rather than an extraordinary one—but the closer we move toward it, the more there is to discover. HouseChanel Creative DirectorMatthieu Blazy SeasonSpring 2027 StudyThe... Read more...
LOUIS VUITTON SS27
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Spring 2027 LOUIS VUITTON What Happens When the Show Has a Stronger Identity Than the Clothes? Louis Vuitton can build extraordinary spectacle. Spring 2027 arrives with the scale, environment and production expected from one of fashion's largest houses. Yet the more ambitious the world around the runway becomes, the more pressing another question feels: once we remove the spectacle, who exactly is the Louis Vuitton woman we are being asked to follow? HouseLouis Vuitton Creative... Read more...
ZIMMERMANN SS27
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Spring 2027 ZIMMERMANN How Do You Build a World Without Repeating the Same Idea? Zimmermann Spring 2027 is filled with flowers, drape, volume, lace, tailoring, surface, color and movement. Almost every garment has something to say, yet the collection rarely feels as though everything is speaking at once. Its achievement is not simply abundance. It is the development of an idea: taking a recognizable motif, allowing it to change form and function, and gradually building... Read more...
GABRIELA HEARST SS27
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Spring 2027 GABRIELA HEARST What Makes a Wardrobe Feel Complete? Gabriela Hearst Spring 2027 does not depend on one spectacular garment category or one repeated styling formula. Tailoring, long dresses, knitwear, leather, color, pattern, evening pieces and quieter foundations coexist without making the collection feel as though it belongs to several unrelated women. The interesting question is therefore larger than whether each runway look works. What makes different clothes begin to feel like parts of... Read more...
SACAI SS27
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 SACAI Can Every Garment Be the Statement? Chitose Abe gives Spring 2027 an extraordinary amount of design activity: volume, fringe, hybrid construction, sculpted skirts, altered tailoring, protruding hems, texture and movement. Individually, many of those interventions are exactly what make Sacai compelling. Seen one after another, however, they raise a different question. If almost every look asks the eye for attention, when does the eye get enough rest to... Read more...
JOHANNA ORTIZ SS27
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Spring 2027 JOHANNA ORTIZ How Do You Evolve an Aesthetic Without Outgrowing It? Johanna Ortiz does not treat evolution as an escape from the bohemian language that made her work recognizable. Spring 2027 does something more interesting: it keeps testing how much that language can contain. Print becomes tailoring. Warm earth tones become green, purple, cream and black. Fluid dresses sit beside jackets and trousers. Decoration intensifies, recedes and returns. The aesthetic remains familiar, but... Read more...
CELINE SS27
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 CELINE When Does a Designer’s Language Become Bigger Than the House? Michael Rider no longer feels like a designer introducing himself at Celine. From his first collection for the house to Spring 2027, a recognizable vocabulary has formed quickly enough that its influence can now be felt beyond Celine itself. The more interesting question is no longer whether Rider has established a language. It is what happens when fashion... Read more...
VALENTINO SS27
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 VALENTINO Why Does “Too Much” Sometimes Work? Alessandro Michele fills Valentino Spring 2027 with color, lace, tailoring, lingerie, feathers, pattern, jewelry, unusual shoes, hats, bags and contradictions. It should be dangerously close to collapse. Instead, much of it feels extraordinarily composed — like an exceptionally fashionable person opened a closet, trusted her instinct and put together whatever caught her attention. The apparent spontaneity is the seduction. The hidden control... Read more...
MIU MIU SS27
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 MIU MIU What Happens When a Successful Aesthetic Becomes a Formula? Miu Miu does not have an identity problem. Spring 2027 may reveal the more complicated problem that arrives after a fashion house has created an identity so recognizable, influential and desirable that even its disruptions become predictable. Across 76 looks, familiar tensions return: proper and improper, preppy and sporty, polished and dishevelled, dressed and undressed. The question is... Read more...
SCHIAPARELLI SS27
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 SCHIAPARELLI What Happens When Couture Becomes a Daily Language? Daniel Roseberry's Spring 2027 ready-to-wear asks a more interesting question than how to make couture wearable. It asks which parts of couture can survive when the couture occasion disappears. Across 52 looks, construction, body awareness, archive research, surface, embroidery and fantasy move into a wardrobe designed to exist beyond the spectacular gown. The result suggests that couture is not only... Read more...
LOEWE SS27
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 LOEWE Can a Brand Keep Its Personality When Its Handwriting Changes? Spring 2027 feels unmistakably like a new Loewe. The silhouettes, styling decisions and visual handwriting belong to a new creative direction, yet the house has not become unrecognizable in the process. What survives is more difficult to identify than a repeated silhouette or archive reference: a temperament. Play, material curiosity, unexpected color and a willingness to make familiar... Read more...
LANVIN SS27
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 LANVIN Can Elegance Have a Point of View? Peter Copping's Spring 2027 collection is elegant without allowing elegance to become anonymous. A shoe interrupts a controlled silhouette. Lace complicates tailoring. Saturated red and turquoise enter otherwise disciplined compositions. Delicacy sits beside graphic black and white. The collection proposes that coherence does not require every part of an outfit to agree—and that sometimes the smallest disagreement is what makes beauty... Read more...
CHLOÉ SS27
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 CHLOÉ What Makes Clothes Feel Alive? Chemena Kamali's Spring 2027 collection is full of clothes that refuse to remain visually still. Fringe continues beyond the edge of the garment. Tassels swing away from bags. Full dresses change their perimeter as the body moves. Lightweight protective layers float over softer clothes underneath. Color arrives, retreats and returns. The collection asks us to look at clothing not only as a finished... Read more...
GIVENCHY SS27
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 GIVENCHY How Much Expression Can Elegance Hold? Sarah Burton's Spring 2027 collection proposes an elegant woman without requiring her to become quiet. Tailoring gives her structure without imprisoning her inside rigidity. Black gives an outfit definition without automatically making it severe. Saturated yellow, orange, blue, green and red are allowed to remain intense rather than being softened into traditionally “tasteful” color. The deeper lesson is not simply that elegance... Read more...
BALENCIAGA SS27
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 BALENCIAGA Who Gets to Define What a House Is? Pierpaolo Piccioli's Spring 2027 collection arrives inside a difficult question of fashion memory. When observers say that something “isn't Balenciaga,” which Balenciaga are they remembering? A house with more than a century of history cannot be reduced to its most recent successful era. Yet ten years of Demna changed the house profoundly enough that moving away from his language also... Read more...
GAUCHÈRE SS27
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 GAUCHÈRE How Much Does a Garment Have to Change Before It Feels Different? Gauchère Spring 2027 offers a useful lesson in concentrated design. Familiar wardrobe categories remain familiar, yet small changes in proportion, placement, construction and fastening can alter how those clothes sit, move and behave around the body. The collection asks us to look beyond the obvious question of what a garment is and toward a more revealing... Read more...
UMA WANG SS27
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 UMA WANG How Can More Fabric Create Less Noise? Uma Wang Spring 2027 complicates one of fashion's easiest assumptions about minimalism: that restraint must be achieved by reducing the amount of clothing on the body. Here, layers accumulate, surfaces change, lengths interrupt one another and different fabrics occupy the same silhouette. Yet the result can remain remarkably quiet. The collection asks us to look beyond quantity and toward something... Read more...
THE ROW SS27
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 THE ROW Can Minimalism Look Lived In? The Row Spring 2027 does not need to escape minimalism in order to develop it. Instead, the collection loosens one of the assumptions that has attached itself to modern minimalist dressing: that restraint must also mean pristine surfaces, immaculate styling and clothes that appear almost untouched. Here, minimalism feels softer, handled and inhabited. The question is no longer how little a garment... Read more...
CARVEN SS27
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 CARVEN Can Empty Space Be Designed? Carven Spring 2027 makes volume interesting not simply because garments become larger, but because the collection repeatedly asks what can happen in the distance between fabric and body. Sleeves expand. Silhouettes stand away from anatomy. Fabric establishes new outer boundaries. The result is a useful lesson in something fashion often leaves unnamed: designers do not only shape material. They can shape the air... Read more...
TOM FORD SS27
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 TOM FORD Is Seduction Stronger Before Everything Is Revealed? Haider Ackermann's Tom Ford continues to become more convincing. Spring 2027 understands the confidence, sexuality and controlled glamour expected from the house without simply reproducing an earlier Tom Ford era. Yet the collection also exposes an interesting contradiction. Its most seductive moments are not necessarily those that reveal the most. They are the moments when clothing creates a negotiation between... Read more...
Appointment 04: The Autumn Reset
GTWJ Fashion Index · Personal Styling If I Were Your Stylist · Appointment 04 The Autumn Reset Before I added anything to your closet, this is what I would change first. Autumn is one of the easiest moments to mistake a styling problem for a shopping problem. The weather changes, the clothes become heavier, the proportions shift, and suddenly the outfits that felt completely right a few weeks ago do not seem to work anymore. If you were my client, I would not begin this appointment by asking what you... Read more...
STELLA McCARTNEY SS27
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 STELLA McCARTNEY What Happens After a Collection Raises the Standard? Spring 2027 is not difficult because it is a bad collection. In many places, it is quite nice. There is tailoring, softness, useful sportswear, easy denim, fluid dresses, controlled volume and clothes that can move convincingly beyond the runway. The difficulty is more complicated: Stella McCartney arrives here after recent collections that made us expect more from the house.... Read more...
ACNE STUDIOS SS27
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 ACNE STUDIOS Can Bad Taste Be Sophisticated? There are outfits in Spring 2027 that are beautiful until something interrupts them. A leg appears where the eye wants a skirt to finish. A trouser refuses to disappear beneath a dress. Romantic volume meets something mundane. Tailoring is disturbed by color, print or proportion. The collection creates a peculiar response: we can like what we are seeing and want to correct... Read more...
COURRÈGES SS27
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 COURRÈGES When Does an Idea Become a Good Garment? Spring 2027 is clearly trying to do something. Familiar clothes are cut, attached, interrupted, fastened, extended, exposed and transformed. Some interventions genuinely change the object. Others make the design process more visible without necessarily making the final garment more convincing. Courrèges gives us an opportunity to separate two things fashion criticism too often treats as identical: having an interesting idea... Read more...
DRIES VAN NOTEN SS27
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 DRIES VAN NOTEN Why Does This Not Look Wrong? Stripes beside animal print. Florals layered over florals. Pastels interrupted by acid color. Ordinary cardigans against decorative skirts. Shiny surfaces beside familiar knits. Spring 2027 repeatedly brings together things that conventional dressing rules would tell us to separate — and then demonstrates why taste is far more complicated than simply knowing what matches. HouseDries Van Noten SeasonSpring 2027 GTWJ Archive61... Read more...
BALMAIN SS27
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 BALMAIN If the clothes could belong to any house, what makes them Balmain? Spring 2027 is not difficult because the clothes are undesirable. Quite the opposite. There are beautiful jackets, metallic surfaces, narrow skirts, leather, color and evening pieces throughout this collection. The harder question is institutional: in an increasingly convergent luxury landscape, how much of Balmain must remain for change to still feel like the evolution of Balmain?... Read more...
What You Can Start Wearing Now From SS27 Collections
GTWJ Fashion Index × Personal Styling Spring 2027 → Fall 2026 The Fall Wardrobe From Spring 2027 · Part I What You CanStart WearingNow. Spring 2027 is arriving on the runway while we are getting dressed for Fall 2026. We do not need to wait six months to use what the collections are already teaching us — and we certainly do not need to wait six months to start shopping for the shapes, colours and materials that suddenly feel exciting. A runway-to-wardrobe study Silhouette · colour · material · styling... Read more...
SAINT LAURENT SS27
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 SAINTLAURENT What Does Mastery Look Like After Ten Years? Anthony Vaccarello no longer needs to prove that he understands Saint Laurent. After a decade at the house, Spring 2027 asks a harder question: how far can an established language move without losing the authority that made it recognizable in the first place? HouseSaint Laurent Creative DirectorAnthony Vaccarello SeasonSpring 2027 Runway Archive59 Looks 01 The question we brought to Paris... Read more...
ANREALAGE SS27
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 ANREALAGE When Does Excess Become Design? Spring 2027 gives us two very different versions of visual excess. In its strongest dresses, ANREALAGE makes pattern, volume and optical distortion change the garment itself. Elsewhere, especially in some of the body-conscious opening propositions, there can be an enormous amount to see without an equally enormous amount happening to the clothes. House ANREALAGE Season Spring 2027 City Paris Runway Archive 35 Looks... Read more...
Can Balenciaga Change the House Without Changing the Customer?
GTWJ FASHION INDEX · FASHION NEWS · HOUSE STRATEGY Can Balenciaga Change the House Without Changing the Customer? Pierpaolo Piccioli, the reported possibility of another creative-director exit, and the much harder question of what happens when a fashion house tries to move beyond the customer identity it spent years creating. GTWJ STUDY · SEPTEMBER 2026 REPORTING STATUS On 22 September 2026, Miss Tweed reported, citing industry sources, that Pierpaolo Piccioli is set to leave Balenciaga after just over a year and that an announcement could come after the house's 1... Read more...
MAISON MARGIELA SS27
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 MAISON MARGIELA — HOW FAR CAN A HOUSE EVOLVE BEFORE WE STOP RECOGNIZING THE HOUSE? Glenn Martens has already shown that he understands how to reference Margiela. Spring 2027 presents a more difficult problem. If the codes become harder to locate, what remains of the design philosophy underneath them? House Maison Margiela Creative Director Glenn Martens Season Spring 2027 Archive 62 Looks 01 What Am I Looking At? The... Read more...
MARIE ADAM-LEENAERDT SS27
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 MARIE ADAM-LEENAERDT — WHEN DESIGN ACTIVITY DOESN'T CREATE DESIGN IMPACT Spring 2027 manipulates familiar clothes again and again. Proportions move, silhouettes distort, layers shift and color interrupts. Yet the collection raises a harder question: why can clothes contain visible design decisions and still leave surprisingly little behind? DesignerMarie Adam-Leenaerdt SeasonSpring 2027 CityParis Archive49 Looks 01 The Problem With Calling Something Bland Critical Vocabulary Bland does not necessarily mean basic.... Read more...
DIOR SS27
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 DIOR  WHEN DOES CONTINUITY BECOME A DESIGN LANGUAGE? Jonathan Anderson's Dior is becoming recognizable enough that Spring 2027 can initially feel familiar. Look closer, however, and familiarity begins to reveal something else: not the repetition of the same clothes, but the construction of a Dior vocabulary. House Christian Dior Creative Director Jonathan Anderson Season Spring 2027 Runway Archive 65 Looks 01 The Debut Is Over Paris Question Jonathan Anderson... Read more...
MAME KUROGOUCHI SS27
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 MAME KUROGOUCHI — WHY DOES QUIET DESIGN NOT HAVE TO FEEL BLAND? Restraint is often confused with simplicity. Spring 2027 shows why they are not the same thing. Through proportion, material, surface, tailoring and controlled progression, Mame Kurogouchi demonstrates how a collection can remain quiet while giving the eye more and more to discover. DesignerMaiko Kurogouchi HouseMame Kurogouchi SeasonSpring 2027 Archive38 Looks 01 Quiet Is Not The Same As... Read more...
MERUERT TOLEGEN SS27
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Discovery Study · Spring 2027 MERUERT TOLEGEN —WHEN DOES A SIGNATURE BECOME A LANGUAGE? Flowers, bows, corsetry, cocoon shapes and romantic surfaces already make Meruert Tolegen increasingly recognizable. Spring 2027 asks the harder question: which of those things define the brand — and which sometimes get in the way of seeing the design underneath? DesignerMeruert Tolegen SeasonSpring 2027 Paris ContextSPHERE Archive31 Looks 01 The First Recognition Test Emerging Identity I can already begin to... Read more...
JULIE KEGELS SS27
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 JULIE KEGELS — WHEN DOES AN EMERGING DESIGN LANGUAGE BECOME SPECIFIC? Spring 2027 is not interesting because Julie Kegels suddenly looks finished. It is interesting because the distance between the idea and the clothes is becoming smaller — and we can begin to see which instincts might eventually become her language. Designer Julie Kegels Season Spring 2027 City Paris Collection 43 Looks 01 Why This Collection Matters The Discovery... Read more...
PARIS FASHION WEEK SS27
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 THE DEBUTS ARE OVER. NOW WHAT? Paris begins after one of fashion's largest creative-director resets. The introductions have been made. The archives have been studied. Now we can ask the more difficult question: what are these designers actually building? City Paris Season Spring 2027 Dates 28 September — 6 October Study What To Expect 01 The Question Paris Inherits From Milan To Paris Understanding the house was the first... Read more...
WHAT DID MILAN ACTUALLY TELL US?
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Milan · Spring 2027 / Closing Study Fashion Index · Milan Fashion Week · Spring 2027 WHAT DID MILAN ACTUALLY TELL US? We arrived in Milan with one question: can experimentation and clarity exist at the same time? After studying the collections individually, the answer is more interesting than a list of trends. City Milan Season Spring 2027 Study City Conclusion Focus Ideas · Trends · What Comes Next 01 The Question We Brought From London From London to Milan Clarity was... Read more...
GIORGIO ARMANI SS27
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Milan · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Collection & Succession Study GIORGIO ARMANI When Does a Founder's Language Become a House Language? Spring / Summer 2027 Silvana Armani Milan 67 Looks A Study of Memory / Code / Succession Giorgio Armani Spring 2027 cannot be studied exactly like an ordinary collection. Giorgio Armani is no longer personally standing behind the clothes, correcting the proportions, controlling the presentation and deciding what the word “Armani” means. The language remains. The man who spent fifty... Read more...
BOTTEGA VENETA SS27
GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Milan · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Collection Study BOTTEGA VENETA What Makes Craftsmanship Visible Without Making It Theatrical? Spring / Summer 2027 Louise Trotter Milan 63 Looks Bottega Veneta Spring 2027 demonstrates something more difficult than simply understanding a house's archive. Louise Trotter understands that at Bottega Veneta, design cannot stop at the surface. A garment may appear simple, extravagant, wearable or almost too precious to touch, but its value is repeatedly located in how it has been made: material transformed... Read more...