When Did Everything Have to Become an Aesthetic?
On the difference between having a recognisable aesthetic and developing a point of view of your own.
Apparently, everything needs a name now.
Somewhere along the way, we became extraordinarily good at turning the way things look into entire identities.
A certain kind of apartment is no longer simply an apartment decorated with furniture somebody loves. It belongs to an aesthetic. A morning routine belongs to an aesthetic. A particular way of wearing your hair, arranging books, choosing a handbag or ordering coffee can all be understood through an increasingly specific visual category.
And fashion, of course, is one of the places where this language has become especially powerful.
We have always had names for different styles. Minimalism, romanticism, classicism, punk, bohemian dressing and countless other visual movements existed long before social media. Fashion history would be considerably harder to discuss without them. These words help us identify influences, recognise patterns and understand the relationships between clothing and culture.
But I think something has shifted in the way we use them.
Aesthetic language no longer seems to describe only what we are looking at. Increasingly, it tells us what else should belong beside it.
You like this coat? Then perhaps you should also like this shoe, this bag, this hairstyle, this interior, this colour palette and this particular version of everyday life.
A visual preference becomes a complete world.
And the more I think about that, the more interested I become in the difference between having an aesthetic and actually having taste.
An aesthetic describes what something looks like. Taste helps you understand why it appeals to you.
They can work beautifully together. But they are not interchangeable, and confusing them changes the way we approach getting dressed.
First, aesthetics are not the problem.
I actually think being able to name a visual language is enormously useful.
Imagine seeing a photograph of a woman in an oversized charcoal coat, flat shoes, beautifully cut trousers and a very quiet colour palette. You might recognise references to minimalism, modern tailoring or a particular period in fashion history. Those references give you somewhere to begin looking.
You can discover designers whose work explores similar proportions. You can look at older collections, understand where the silhouette came from and start identifying the construction details that make one version of the look different from another.
A name becomes an entrance into knowledge.
The same is true of romantic dressing. If you discover that you love a particular relationship between softness, volume, lace, draping and ornament, having language for those qualities allows you to explore them more intelligently.
That is very different from simply being told which products belong to a particular aesthetic.
One approach teaches you to recognise a visual idea. The other hands you a collection of objects that are supposed to represent it.
Neither approach is inherently wrong. Sometimes discovering a beautifully curated selection of clothes is exactly what makes shopping exciting. But I think we lose something when the second approach completely replaces the first.
The moment an aesthetic starts making decisions for you.
There is a subtle difference between saying, I tend to love minimalist clothing, and saying, I'm a minimalist, so I can't wear that.
The first sentence describes an observation about your taste. The second turns that observation into a restriction.
It may seem like a small distinction, but I think it explains a surprising amount about the way we approach personal style today.
Once we identify with a particular aesthetic, every new purchase can begin to feel like a test of consistency. Does this bag belong to the image? Is this colour appropriate? Would the woman who dresses this way wear these shoes? Does the piece fit the world I have created around myself?
Sometimes those questions are useful. A recognisable wardrobe benefits from relationships between its pieces. Having a clear direction can make shopping more enjoyable and getting dressed more intuitive.
But there is a point at which consistency can become more important than curiosity.
You might find an extraordinary embroidered jacket, for example, and love its shape, workmanship and colour. Yet if your established identity is built around very restrained clothing, you may dismiss it before discovering what it could look like with the trousers and shoes you already love.
The aesthetic has answered the question before your eye has had the opportunity to.
You can admire several different worlds without belonging to one.
I think this is where having a developed eye becomes particularly interesting.
You can admire the restraint of The Row, the romantic imagination of Valentino and the eccentricity of Miu Miu without feeling that you must choose one as the correct representation of your personality.
They offer very different propositions about how clothes can relate to the body, how much visual information an outfit can contain and what makes a silhouette compelling.
You might appreciate all three while only wanting to wear certain pieces from each.
In fact, I think the ability to recognise good design outside your personal preferences is one of the most valuable things fashion education can give you.
When you look at a collection, you can ask whether its proportions are intentional, whether the materials support the silhouette, whether the styling strengthens the clothes and whether the designer has developed a coherent idea.
Those questions are separate from whether you would personally buy the collection.
The same applies to the people we admire. Someone can be extraordinarily well dressed in an aesthetic you would never choose for yourself. Recognising that doesn't make your own taste less certain. It means you can distinguish personal preference from visual judgment.
You don't need to dress like someone to recognise that she is beautifully dressed.
Why does a recognisable look sometimes become predictable?
One of the interesting things about aesthetics is how quickly their visual codes can become familiar.
A particular jacket shape, a certain shoe, one handbag silhouette, a narrow palette and a recognisable way of styling the hair can become shorthand for an entire look.
That shorthand is useful because it communicates immediately. You don't need to study every element to understand the reference.
But fashion becomes less interesting when the shorthand is mistaken for the full idea.
Take minimalism. The word is often reduced to neutral colours, uncomplicated garments and an absence of obvious decoration. Yet some of the most compelling minimalist design is extraordinarily complex.
The shoulder might sit at an unusual angle. The volume of a coat might be concentrated behind the body. A trouser might have a precisely controlled relationship with the shoe. A seam might determine how the fabric moves when the wearer walks.
None of those decisions can be explained simply by calling the outfit minimalist.
The same applies to romantic fashion. Lace and a soft colour do not automatically create an interesting romantic design. The cut, material, construction, proportion and styling still have to do something.
An aesthetic is the broad vocabulary. The design decisions are what make the sentence worth reading.
It is much easier to sell a complete world than a single preference.
I think part of the popularity of aesthetics comes from how satisfying it feels when everything appears to belong together.
A photograph of a coat is one thing. A photograph of that coat beside the right apartment, the right coffee table books, the right sunglasses, the right holiday destination and the right morning routine offers something much larger.
It presents a complete visual world.
There is pleasure in that. I understand why people are drawn to it. Fashion has always been connected to imagination, aspiration and the lives we picture ourselves living.
Luxury houses have spent decades building recognisable worlds through their collections, campaigns, stores, fragrances and imagery. The idea of a fashion universe is hardly new.
What feels different today is how easily an individual can be encouraged to organise almost every part of life around one visual category.
The wardrobe, bedroom, desk, beauty routine and holiday photographs can all become evidence of the same aesthetic identity.
And because those categories are so easy to communicate, they are also easy to reproduce. One successful visual formula becomes a reference for thousands of other images.
Eventually, it can become difficult to distinguish the original idea from the countless versions inspired by it.
Visual consistency is not the same as individuality.
Consistency means that things share recognisable characteristics. Individuality means that the choices communicate something specific about the person making them.
A wardrobe can be extremely consistent and still feel anonymous. Another wardrobe can contain several contrasting influences and still feel unmistakably connected to one person.
The difference is not how many aesthetics are represented. It is whether the person understands the relationships between the things she chooses.
The most interesting wardrobes often contain contradictions.
Think about the combinations that make you look twice.
A very precise tailored jacket with a soft, slightly undone skirt. An antique piece of jewellery worn with something distinctly modern. A romantic blouse under an almost severe coat. A beautiful evening bag carried with everyday clothes.
The pieces may come from different visual traditions, but the combination can feel completely natural on the person wearing it.
That is often where personal taste becomes visible: not in the ability to reproduce an established aesthetic, but in the decisions made between its boundaries.
I am not suggesting that every outfit needs an unexpected contrast. Some women have an extremely restrained visual language and dress beautifully within it. Others genuinely love a highly coordinated romantic or classic wardrobe.
The important distinction is whether the consistency comes from genuine preference or from feeling obligated to maintain an image.
A woman who loves black tailoring does not need to introduce colour simply to prove that she has individuality.
But she should be able to love a colourful dress without feeling that doing so somehow contradicts who she is.
What happens when you remove the label?
There is a useful exercise I sometimes think about when looking at clothes.
Imagine removing the name of the aesthetic from an image. No caption telling you that it is minimalist, romantic, classic, eclectic or anything else.
What is left for you to notice?
Perhaps the first thing is proportion. The coat is long, but the trousers are narrow. The jacket is short, but the skirt creates movement below it. The shoe is visually heavy, which changes how the rest of the outfit appears.
Then there is colour. Maybe the outfit uses several shades of one family. Maybe one unexpected colour creates the entire point of interest. Maybe the contrast between the clothing and the wearer's hair is what makes the image memorable.
Then texture. A crisp cotton beside soft leather. A polished surface beside something matte. A structured wool coat over fabric that moves easily around the body.
Then the details: the jewellery, the way a sleeve is worn, the bag, the neckline, the placement of a belt, the relationship between grooming and clothing.
By the time you have really looked, the aesthetic label may be the least interesting part of the outfit.
It can still be useful. It can tell you which family of ideas you are looking at. But it no longer has to do all the thinking.
From recognising an aesthetic to understanding a look.
When an outfit catches your attention, there are several visual relationships worth noticing before deciding which aesthetic it belongs to.
Silhouette
Look at the shape the clothes create around the body. Where is the volume? Where is the structure? What makes the proportion feel deliberate?
Colour
Notice whether colour creates harmony, contrast, softness or tension. Ask what would change if one colour were replaced.
Texture
Observe how different materials interact. Often the relationship between surfaces is what makes a simple outfit interesting.
Reference
Look for historical influences, familiar garment archetypes and design traditions. Then notice what has been changed or reinterpreted.
Styling
Separate the garment from the way it is worn. Shoes, bags, jewellery, grooming and small adjustments can change the meaning of the clothes.
Individuality
Consider what makes the look convincing on its wearer. Would the same combination communicate something different on another person?
You are allowed to like something that doesn't match your previous taste.
Another reason I find the relationship between aesthetics and identity interesting is that our preferences are not necessarily permanent.
You can spend years loving one silhouette and suddenly become fascinated by another. You can discover a designer whose work makes you reconsider a colour you previously ignored. You can see a garment styled in a completely unfamiliar way and realise that the thing you thought you disliked was never really the garment itself.
Perhaps you disliked the way you had always seen it worn.
This is one of the pleasures of following fashion closely. New collections, old archives, street style, exhibitions and beautifully dressed people constantly introduce us to possibilities we had not considered.
I would hate for a personal aesthetic to become a reason to stop being curious.
Your taste can become more developed without becoming less open.
In fact, the more you understand fashion, the more clearly you may be able to distinguish between something you admire, something you want to try and something you genuinely want to make part of your life.
A personal point of view can be recognisable without being predictable.
Consistency can be beautiful. So can change. Neither one should require you to surrender your own curiosity.
Maybe the goal isn't to become an aesthetic at all.
I think there is something rather beautiful about being able to recognise a person's style without being able to reduce it to one convenient word.
You know the way she wears trousers. You know the kind of jewellery she loves. You recognise the proportions she returns to, the colours she finds interesting and the small details she repeatedly chooses.
But she can still surprise you.
She can arrive in something completely different, and instead of thinking that she has abandoned her identity, you simply recognise another part of her taste.
Perhaps that is the difference I have been trying to understand.
An aesthetic can make everything look as though it belongs together. Personal taste is what makes those things belong to someone.
And those are not always the same achievement.
I don't want us to stop enjoying aesthetics. I love the discovery they encourage, the references they introduce and the pleasure of seeing a beautifully realised visual world.
I simply think we can appreciate all of that without feeling that every preference has to become a permanent identity.
You can love a particular aesthetic. You can dress almost entirely within it. You can change it, combine it with something else or return to it years later.
What matters is that the aesthetic remains something you enjoy, rather than something you feel obliged to perform.
Your taste does not need to fit perfectly inside a category to be real.
Sometimes the most interesting thing about someone's style is precisely what cannot be explained by the aesthetic she appears to belong to.
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