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Runway & Collections

Runway as evidence: silhouette, proportion, fabrication, styling, casting, colour, accessories, house language and the ideas a collection is proposing.

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Runway & Collections

October 08, 2026

Featured Collection Study

PARIS THE DEBUTS ARE OVER. WHAT DID FASHION ACTUALLY DECIDE?

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The Archive

October 8, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris Spring 2027 · Season Report GTWJ Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week PARIS THE DEBUTS ARE OVER. WHAT DID FASHION ACTUALLY DECIDE? The strongest collections, the designers who moved fashion forward, the trends worth watching, and what Spring 2027 can already teach us about dressing for Fall 2026. SeasonSpring 2027 CityParis StudyFashion Month Conclusion PerspectiveDesign, Desire & Discovery 00 / The Central Question What comes after the debut? Paris Spring 2027 arrived at an interesting moment in fashion. Many of the... Read more...

Chanel SS27

October 7, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris · Spring 2027 CHANEL Can the Detail Be More Exciting Than the Silhouette? Matthieu Blazy's Chanel no longer has the advantage of being new simply because it is different. The woman is becoming recognizable, the language is becoming continuous, and the question has changed. Spring 2027 is a good collection rather than an extraordinary one—but the closer we move toward it, the more there is to discover. HouseChanel Creative DirectorMatthieu Blazy SeasonSpring 2027 StudyThe... Read more...

LOUIS VUITTON SS27

October 7, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Spring 2027 LOUIS VUITTON What Happens When the Show Has a Stronger Identity Than the Clothes? Louis Vuitton can build extraordinary spectacle. Spring 2027 arrives with the scale, environment and production expected from one of fashion's largest houses. Yet the more ambitious the world around the runway becomes, the more pressing another question feels: once we remove the spectacle, who exactly is the Louis Vuitton woman we are being asked to follow? HouseLouis Vuitton Creative... Read more...

ZIMMERMANN SS27

October 7, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Spring 2027 ZIMMERMANN How Do You Build a World Without Repeating the Same Idea? Zimmermann Spring 2027 is filled with flowers, drape, volume, lace, tailoring, surface, color and movement. Almost every garment has something to say, yet the collection rarely feels as though everything is speaking at once. Its achievement is not simply abundance. It is the development of an idea: taking a recognizable motif, allowing it to change form and function, and gradually building... Read more...

GABRIELA HEARST SS27

October 6, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Spring 2027 GABRIELA HEARST What Makes a Wardrobe Feel Complete? Gabriela Hearst Spring 2027 does not depend on one spectacular garment category or one repeated styling formula. Tailoring, long dresses, knitwear, leather, color, pattern, evening pieces and quieter foundations coexist without making the collection feel as though it belongs to several unrelated women. The interesting question is therefore larger than whether each runway look works. What makes different clothes begin to feel like parts of... Read more...

SACAI SS27

October 6, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 SACAI Can Every Garment Be the Statement? Chitose Abe gives Spring 2027 an extraordinary amount of design activity: volume, fringe, hybrid construction, sculpted skirts, altered tailoring, protruding hems, texture and movement. Individually, many of those interventions are exactly what make Sacai compelling. Seen one after another, however, they raise a different question. If almost every look asks the eye for attention, when does the eye get enough rest to... Read more...

JOHANNA ORTIZ SS27

October 6, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Spring 2027 JOHANNA ORTIZ How Do You Evolve an Aesthetic Without Outgrowing It? Johanna Ortiz does not treat evolution as an escape from the bohemian language that made her work recognizable. Spring 2027 does something more interesting: it keeps testing how much that language can contain. Print becomes tailoring. Warm earth tones become green, purple, cream and black. Fluid dresses sit beside jackets and trousers. Decoration intensifies, recedes and returns. The aesthetic remains familiar, but... Read more...

CELINE SS27

October 6, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 CELINE When Does a Designer’s Language Become Bigger Than the House? Michael Rider no longer feels like a designer introducing himself at Celine. From his first collection for the house to Spring 2027, a recognizable vocabulary has formed quickly enough that its influence can now be felt beyond Celine itself. The more interesting question is no longer whether Rider has established a language. It is what happens when fashion... Read more...

VALENTINO SS27

October 5, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 VALENTINO Why Does “Too Much” Sometimes Work? Alessandro Michele fills Valentino Spring 2027 with color, lace, tailoring, lingerie, feathers, pattern, jewelry, unusual shoes, hats, bags and contradictions. It should be dangerously close to collapse. Instead, much of it feels extraordinarily composed — like an exceptionally fashionable person opened a closet, trusted her instinct and put together whatever caught her attention. The apparent spontaneity is the seduction. The hidden control... Read more...

MIU MIU SS27

October 5, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 MIU MIU What Happens When a Successful Aesthetic Becomes a Formula? Miu Miu does not have an identity problem. Spring 2027 may reveal the more complicated problem that arrives after a fashion house has created an identity so recognizable, influential and desirable that even its disruptions become predictable. Across 76 looks, familiar tensions return: proper and improper, preppy and sporty, polished and dishevelled, dressed and undressed. The question is... Read more...

SCHIAPARELLI SS27

October 4, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 SCHIAPARELLI What Happens When Couture Becomes a Daily Language? Daniel Roseberry's Spring 2027 ready-to-wear asks a more interesting question than how to make couture wearable. It asks which parts of couture can survive when the couture occasion disappears. Across 52 looks, construction, body awareness, archive research, surface, embroidery and fantasy move into a wardrobe designed to exist beyond the spectacular gown. The result suggests that couture is not only... Read more...

LOEWE SS27

October 4, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 LOEWE Can a Brand Keep Its Personality When Its Handwriting Changes? Spring 2027 feels unmistakably like a new Loewe. The silhouettes, styling decisions and visual handwriting belong to a new creative direction, yet the house has not become unrecognizable in the process. What survives is more difficult to identify than a repeated silhouette or archive reference: a temperament. Play, material curiosity, unexpected color and a willingness to make familiar... Read more...

LANVIN SS27

October 3, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 LANVIN Can Elegance Have a Point of View? Peter Copping's Spring 2027 collection is elegant without allowing elegance to become anonymous. A shoe interrupts a controlled silhouette. Lace complicates tailoring. Saturated red and turquoise enter otherwise disciplined compositions. Delicacy sits beside graphic black and white. The collection proposes that coherence does not require every part of an outfit to agree—and that sometimes the smallest disagreement is what makes beauty... Read more...

CHLOÉ SS27

October 3, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 CHLOÉ What Makes Clothes Feel Alive? Chemena Kamali's Spring 2027 collection is full of clothes that refuse to remain visually still. Fringe continues beyond the edge of the garment. Tassels swing away from bags. Full dresses change their perimeter as the body moves. Lightweight protective layers float over softer clothes underneath. Color arrives, retreats and returns. The collection asks us to look at clothing not only as a finished... Read more...

GIVENCHY SS27

October 3, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 GIVENCHY How Much Expression Can Elegance Hold? Sarah Burton's Spring 2027 collection proposes an elegant woman without requiring her to become quiet. Tailoring gives her structure without imprisoning her inside rigidity. Black gives an outfit definition without automatically making it severe. Saturated yellow, orange, blue, green and red are allowed to remain intense rather than being softened into traditionally “tasteful” color. The deeper lesson is not simply that elegance... Read more...

BALENCIAGA SS27

October 2, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 BALENCIAGA Who Gets to Define What a House Is? Pierpaolo Piccioli's Spring 2027 collection arrives inside a difficult question of fashion memory. When observers say that something “isn't Balenciaga,” which Balenciaga are they remembering? A house with more than a century of history cannot be reduced to its most recent successful era. Yet ten years of Demna changed the house profoundly enough that moving away from his language also... Read more...

GAUCHÈRE SS27

October 2, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 GAUCHÈRE How Much Does a Garment Have to Change Before It Feels Different? Gauchère Spring 2027 offers a useful lesson in concentrated design. Familiar wardrobe categories remain familiar, yet small changes in proportion, placement, construction and fastening can alter how those clothes sit, move and behave around the body. The collection asks us to look beyond the obvious question of what a garment is and toward a more revealing... Read more...

UMA WANG SS27

October 2, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 UMA WANG How Can More Fabric Create Less Noise? Uma Wang Spring 2027 complicates one of fashion's easiest assumptions about minimalism: that restraint must be achieved by reducing the amount of clothing on the body. Here, layers accumulate, surfaces change, lengths interrupt one another and different fabrics occupy the same silhouette. Yet the result can remain remarkably quiet. The collection asks us to look beyond quantity and toward something... Read more...

THE ROW SS27

October 2, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 THE ROW Can Minimalism Look Lived In? The Row Spring 2027 does not need to escape minimalism in order to develop it. Instead, the collection loosens one of the assumptions that has attached itself to modern minimalist dressing: that restraint must also mean pristine surfaces, immaculate styling and clothes that appear almost untouched. Here, minimalism feels softer, handled and inhabited. The question is no longer how little a garment... Read more...

CARVEN SS27

October 2, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 CARVEN Can Empty Space Be Designed? Carven Spring 2027 makes volume interesting not simply because garments become larger, but because the collection repeatedly asks what can happen in the distance between fabric and body. Sleeves expand. Silhouettes stand away from anatomy. Fabric establishes new outer boundaries. The result is a useful lesson in something fashion often leaves unnamed: designers do not only shape material. They can shape the air... Read more...

TOM FORD SS27

October 2, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 TOM FORD Is Seduction Stronger Before Everything Is Revealed? Haider Ackermann's Tom Ford continues to become more convincing. Spring 2027 understands the confidence, sexuality and controlled glamour expected from the house without simply reproducing an earlier Tom Ford era. Yet the collection also exposes an interesting contradiction. Its most seductive moments are not necessarily those that reveal the most. They are the moments when clothing creates a negotiation between... Read more...

STELLA McCARTNEY SS27

October 1, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 STELLA McCARTNEY What Happens After a Collection Raises the Standard? Spring 2027 is not difficult because it is a bad collection. In many places, it is quite nice. There is tailoring, softness, useful sportswear, easy denim, fluid dresses, controlled volume and clothes that can move convincingly beyond the runway. The difficulty is more complicated: Stella McCartney arrives here after recent collections that made us expect more from the house.... Read more...

ACNE STUDIOS SS27

October 1, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 ACNE STUDIOS Can Bad Taste Be Sophisticated? There are outfits in Spring 2027 that are beautiful until something interrupts them. A leg appears where the eye wants a skirt to finish. A trouser refuses to disappear beneath a dress. Romantic volume meets something mundane. Tailoring is disturbed by color, print or proportion. The collection creates a peculiar response: we can like what we are seeing and want to correct... Read more...

COURRÈGES SS27

October 1, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 COURRÈGES When Does an Idea Become a Good Garment? Spring 2027 is clearly trying to do something. Familiar clothes are cut, attached, interrupted, fastened, extended, exposed and transformed. Some interventions genuinely change the object. Others make the design process more visible without necessarily making the final garment more convincing. Courrèges gives us an opportunity to separate two things fashion criticism too often treats as identical: having an interesting idea... Read more...

DRIES VAN NOTEN SS27

October 1, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 DRIES VAN NOTEN Why Does This Not Look Wrong? Stripes beside animal print. Florals layered over florals. Pastels interrupted by acid color. Ordinary cardigans against decorative skirts. Shiny surfaces beside familiar knits. Spring 2027 repeatedly brings together things that conventional dressing rules would tell us to separate — and then demonstrates why taste is far more complicated than simply knowing what matches. HouseDries Van Noten SeasonSpring 2027 GTWJ Archive61... Read more...

BALMAIN SS27

October 1, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 BALMAIN If the clothes could belong to any house, what makes them Balmain? Spring 2027 is not difficult because the clothes are undesirable. Quite the opposite. There are beautiful jackets, metallic surfaces, narrow skirts, leather, color and evening pieces throughout this collection. The harder question is institutional: in an increasingly convergent luxury landscape, how much of Balmain must remain for change to still feel like the evolution of Balmain?... Read more...

SAINT LAURENT SS27

September 30, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 SAINTLAURENT What Does Mastery Look Like After Ten Years? Anthony Vaccarello no longer needs to prove that he understands Saint Laurent. After a decade at the house, Spring 2027 asks a harder question: how far can an established language move without losing the authority that made it recognizable in the first place? HouseSaint Laurent Creative DirectorAnthony Vaccarello SeasonSpring 2027 Runway Archive59 Looks 01 The question we brought to Paris... Read more...

ANREALAGE SS27

September 30, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 ANREALAGE When Does Excess Become Design? Spring 2027 gives us two very different versions of visual excess. In its strongest dresses, ANREALAGE makes pattern, volume and optical distortion change the garment itself. Elsewhere, especially in some of the body-conscious opening propositions, there can be an enormous amount to see without an equally enormous amount happening to the clothes. House ANREALAGE Season Spring 2027 City Paris Runway Archive 35 Looks... Read more...

MAISON MARGIELA SS27

September 30, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 MAISON MARGIELA — HOW FAR CAN A HOUSE EVOLVE BEFORE WE STOP RECOGNIZING THE HOUSE? Glenn Martens has already shown that he understands how to reference Margiela. Spring 2027 presents a more difficult problem. If the codes become harder to locate, what remains of the design philosophy underneath them? House Maison Margiela Creative Director Glenn Martens Season Spring 2027 Archive 62 Looks 01 What Am I Looking At? The... Read more...

MARIE ADAM-LEENAERDT SS27

September 30, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 MARIE ADAM-LEENAERDT — WHEN DESIGN ACTIVITY DOESN'T CREATE DESIGN IMPACT Spring 2027 manipulates familiar clothes again and again. Proportions move, silhouettes distort, layers shift and color interrupts. Yet the collection raises a harder question: why can clothes contain visible design decisions and still leave surprisingly little behind? DesignerMarie Adam-Leenaerdt SeasonSpring 2027 CityParis Archive49 Looks 01 The Problem With Calling Something Bland Critical Vocabulary Bland does not necessarily mean basic.... Read more...

DIOR SS27

September 30, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 DIOR WHEN DOES CONTINUITY BECOME A DESIGN LANGUAGE? Jonathan Anderson's Dior is becoming recognizable enough that Spring 2027 can initially feel familiar. Look closer, however, and familiarity begins to reveal something else: not the repetition of the same clothes, but the construction of a Dior vocabulary. House Christian Dior Creative Director Jonathan Anderson Season Spring 2027 Runway Archive 65 Looks 01 The Debut Is Over Paris Question Jonathan Anderson... Read more...

MAME KUROGOUCHI SS27

September 30, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 MAME KUROGOUCHI — WHY DOES QUIET DESIGN NOT HAVE TO FEEL BLAND? Restraint is often confused with simplicity. Spring 2027 shows why they are not the same thing. Through proportion, material, surface, tailoring and controlled progression, Mame Kurogouchi demonstrates how a collection can remain quiet while giving the eye more and more to discover. DesignerMaiko Kurogouchi HouseMame Kurogouchi SeasonSpring 2027 Archive38 Looks 01 Quiet Is Not The Same As... Read more...

MERUERT TOLEGEN SS27

September 29, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Discovery Study · Spring 2027 MERUERT TOLEGEN —WHEN DOES A SIGNATURE BECOME A LANGUAGE? Flowers, bows, corsetry, cocoon shapes and romantic surfaces already make Meruert Tolegen increasingly recognizable. Spring 2027 asks the harder question: which of those things define the brand — and which sometimes get in the way of seeing the design underneath? DesignerMeruert Tolegen SeasonSpring 2027 Paris ContextSPHERE Archive31 Looks 01 The First Recognition Test Emerging Identity I can already begin to... Read more...

JULIE KEGELS SS27

September 29, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 JULIE KEGELS — WHEN DOES AN EMERGING DESIGN LANGUAGE BECOME SPECIFIC? Spring 2027 is not interesting because Julie Kegels suddenly looks finished. It is interesting because the distance between the idea and the clothes is becoming smaller — and we can begin to see which instincts might eventually become her language. Designer Julie Kegels Season Spring 2027 City Paris Collection 43 Looks 01 Why This Collection Matters The Discovery... Read more...

PARIS FASHION WEEK SS27

September 29, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Paris · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Paris Fashion Week · Spring 2027 THE DEBUTS ARE OVER. NOW WHAT? Paris begins after one of fashion's largest creative-director resets. The introductions have been made. The archives have been studied. Now we can ask the more difficult question: what are these designers actually building? City Paris Season Spring 2027 Dates 28 September — 6 October Study What To Expect 01 The Question Paris Inherits From Milan To Paris Understanding the house was the first... Read more...

WHAT DID MILAN ACTUALLY TELL US?

September 28, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Milan · Spring 2027 / Closing Study Fashion Index · Milan Fashion Week · Spring 2027 WHAT DID MILAN ACTUALLY TELL US? We arrived in Milan with one question: can experimentation and clarity exist at the same time? After studying the collections individually, the answer is more interesting than a list of trends. City Milan Season Spring 2027 Study City Conclusion Focus Ideas · Trends · What Comes Next 01 The Question We Brought From London From London to Milan Clarity was... Read more...

GIORGIO ARMANI SS27

September 28, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Milan · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Collection & Succession Study GIORGIO ARMANI When Does a Founder's Language Become a House Language? Spring / Summer 2027 Silvana Armani Milan 67 Looks A Study of Memory / Code / Succession Giorgio Armani Spring 2027 cannot be studied exactly like an ordinary collection. Giorgio Armani is no longer personally standing behind the clothes, correcting the proportions, controlling the presentation and deciding what the word “Armani” means. The language remains. The man who spent fifty... Read more...

BOTTEGA VENETA SS27

September 28, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Milan · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Collection Study BOTTEGA VENETA What Makes Craftsmanship Visible Without Making It Theatrical? Spring / Summer 2027 Louise Trotter Milan 63 Looks Bottega Veneta Spring 2027 demonstrates something more difficult than simply understanding a house's archive. Louise Trotter understands that at Bottega Veneta, design cannot stop at the surface. A garment may appear simple, extravagant, wearable or almost too precious to touch, but its value is repeatedly located in how it has been made: material transformed... Read more...

MSGM SS27

September 28, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Milan · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Collection Study MSGM When Does Playfulness Stop Looking Designed? Spring / Summer 2027 Massimo Giorgetti Milan 36 Looks MSGM has never needed seriousness in order to be sophisticated. Color, Pop imagery, graphics, youthful energy, deliberate clashes and an instinct for putting unexpected things together are part of its established language. Spring 2027 therefore presents a more difficult critical problem: what happens when a house built on spontaneity makes the spontaneous gesture more visible than the... Read more...

DOLCE & GABBANA SS27

September 28, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Milan · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Collection Study DOLCE & GABBANA When Does Excess Lose Its Hierarchy? Spring / Summer 2027 Stravaganza Siciliana Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana Milan 81-Look GTWJ Archive The problem with Dolce & Gabbana Spring 2027 is not that it is excessive. Excess belongs to the house. Lingerie belongs to the house. Leopard, lace, florals, jewelry, sensuality and visual abundance all belong to the house. The more difficult question is what happens when recognizable house codes accumulate... Read more...

GUCCI SS27

September 27, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Milan · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Collection Study GUCCI Where Does Understanding a House Become Authorship? Spring 2027 Artistic Director · Demna Milan Men's + Women's Collections History · Design · Retail · Desire Gucci Spring 2027 is not simply a study of clothes. It is an attempt to construct an entire Gucci world through history, objects, proportion, styling, personality, architecture and retail. The evidence increasingly suggests that Demna understands the house he inherited. The more difficult question is where that... Read more...

FERRAGAMO SS27

September 27, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Milan · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Collection Study FERRAGAMO When Does Consistency Become Mastery? Spring 2027 Milan 62 Runway Looks Identity · Material Proportion · Color · Restraint Ferragamo Spring 2027 does not need to reinvent the house in order to demonstrate development. Across sixty-two looks, familiar ideas continually return, but rarely in exactly the same relationship. Ferragamo knows what it wants to be, and that certainty gives it room to move. Establishing the Language Looks 01–10 Look 01 Look 02... Read more...

ERMANNO SCERVINO SS27

September 27, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Milan · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Collection Study ERMANNO SCERVINO How Do You Make Opposites Belong Together? Spring 2027 Milan 32 Runway Looks Structure · Softness Surface · Contrast · Body Spring 2027 moves through tailoring, lace, lingerie construction, distressed denim, satin, leather, embroidery and fluid dresses without becoming a catalogue of unrelated ideas. The coherence comes from somewhere deeper: Ermanno Scervino repeatedly places opposing qualities together, then controls their relationship carefully enough that neither one cancels the other. The Vocabulary... Read more...

THE ATTICO SS27

September 27, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Milan · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Collection Study THE ATTICO How Do Clothes Feel Sexy Without Relying on Exposure? Spring 2027 Milan 53-Look Runway Archive Body · Attitude Tension · Styling · Sensuality The most interesting thing about The Attico Spring 2027 is not how much of the body it reveals. It is how often the collection communicates the same sensual confidence when considerably more of the body is covered. Sexiness is not being treated as an amount of exposed skin.... Read more...

MOSCHINO SS27

September 27, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Milan · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Collection Study MOSCHINO How Different Does a Reference Have to Become? Spring 2027 Milan 45 Runway Looks Reference · Silhouette Transformation · Authorship There are fashion references you discover after looking closely. And then there are references you recognize before you have finished looking at the clothes. Moschino Spring 2027 raises a harder question than whether fashion is allowed to borrow: how much transformation has to happen before a familiar design language becomes somebody else's?... Read more...

SPORTMAX SS27

September 27, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Milan · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Collection Study SPORTMAX How Do You Make Clothes Bigger Without Losing the Body? Spring 2027 Milan 38 Runway Looks Volume · Scale Boundaries · Layering · Proportion Sportmax Spring 2027 demonstrates that oversized dressing is not really about making clothes bigger. It is about controlling the space between the garment and the body — and making every boundary inside that space intentional. The Architecture of Volume Looks 01–08 Look 01 Look 02 Look 03 Look... Read more...

BLUMARINE SS27

September 27, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Milan · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Collection Study BLUMARINE When Does Transparency Start Taking Away From the Design? Spring 2027 Milan 41 Runway Looks Transparency · Romance Ruffles · Opacity · Hierarchy Blumarine Spring 2027 is full of beautiful romantic ideas. But it also demonstrates something more difficult: transparency can make a garment feel lighter, more sensual and more delicate — until the body becomes more visually powerful than the design surrounding it. Romance, Ruffles and the Body Opening Sequence Look... Read more...

ELISABETTA FRANCHI SS27

September 27, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Milan · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Collection Study ELISABETTA FRANCHI When Does Inspiration Become Too Recognizable? Spring 2027 Milan 44 Runway Looks Influence · Authorship Surface · Silhouette · Styling Fashion has always been built through reference. The difficult question begins when several decisions — silhouette, surface, color, proportion and styling — point toward the same contemporary source strongly enough that we begin thinking about another designer before we think about the collection in front of us. The Reference Appears Early... Read more...

TOD’S SS27

September 27, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Milan · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Collection Study TOD’S How Do You Give Familiar Clothes Something New To Do? Spring 2027 Milan Matteo Tamburini 37 Runway Looks Leather · Movement Memory · Construction · Ease Tod’s Spring 2027 does not ask the wearer to abandon familiar clothes in order to experience something new. Instead, Matteo Tamburini changes how familiar garments behave: skirts acquire moving panels, leather becomes unexpectedly fluid, dresses fold around the body and formal pieces meet sport. The collection... Read more...

MARNI SS27

September 27, 2026

GTWJ Fashion Index / Runway & Collections / Milan · Spring 2027 Fashion Index · Collection Anatomy MARNI What Happens When Clothes Stop Trying to Shape the Body? Spring 2027 Milan 61 Looks Body · Scale · Architecture Color · Texture · Movement Instead of beginning with whether the clothes flatter, define or transform the figure, Marni Spring 2027 asks us to look at clothing as architecture around a body: how much space a garment occupies, where its edges fall, how color changes its visual weight, how texture creates depth,... Read more...

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Runway & Collections

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Runway & Collections

PARIS THE DEBUTS ARE OVER. WHAT DID FASHION ACTUALLY DECIDE?

Runway & Collections

Chanel SS27

LOUIS VUITTON SS27

ZIMMERMANN SS27

GABRIELA HEARST SS27

SACAI SS27

JOHANNA ORTIZ SS27

CELINE SS27

VALENTINO SS27

MIU MIU SS27

SCHIAPARELLI SS27

LOEWE SS27

LANVIN SS27

CHLOÉ SS27

GIVENCHY SS27

BALENCIAGA SS27

GAUCHÈRE SS27

UMA WANG SS27

THE ROW SS27

CARVEN SS27

TOM FORD SS27

STELLA McCARTNEY SS27

ACNE STUDIOS SS27

COURRÈGES SS27

DRIES VAN NOTEN SS27

BALMAIN SS27

SAINT LAURENT SS27

ANREALAGE SS27

MAISON MARGIELA SS27

MARIE ADAM-LEENAERDT SS27

DIOR SS27

MAME KUROGOUCHI SS27

MERUERT TOLEGEN SS27

JULIE KEGELS SS27

PARIS FASHION WEEK SS27

WHAT DID MILAN ACTUALLY TELL US?

GIORGIO ARMANI SS27

BOTTEGA VENETA SS27

MSGM SS27

DOLCE & GABBANA SS27

GUCCI SS27

FERRAGAMO SS27

ERMANNO SCERVINO SS27

THE ATTICO SS27

MOSCHINO SS27

SPORTMAX SS27

BLUMARINE SS27

ELISABETTA FRANCHI SS27

TOD’S SS27

MARNI SS27